Appliances, HVAC & Water Heater

Part 1

Air filters — the highest-value ten minutes in the house

A blocked filter is the number one cause of air conditioning failure, and in this climate that failure always happens on the hottest day, when every technician is booked.

1. 1

   Find every filter

   Usually a slot at the indoor air handler, or a grille in a hallway or ceiling. Many homes have more than one and people only ever change the one they know about. Walk the house and find them all.

2. 2

   Check the size and direction

   The size is printed on the edge of the old filter. There is an arrow marked AIRFLOW — it must point toward the unit, in the direction air travels. Fitted backwards, the filter collapses and does nothing.

3. 3

   Change on a schedule, not on inspection

   Every one to three months. Every month in summer here, and monthly if you have pets or allergies. Write the date on the edge of the filter in marker as you fit it — then you never have to remember or guess.

4. 4

   Do not over-specify

   Very high MERV filters restrict airflow in systems not designed for them, which strains the blower and can freeze the coil. MERV 8 to 11 suits most homes. More filtration is not automatically better.

5. 5

   What a neglected filter costs

   Restricted airflow makes the coil ice up, the system runs constantly without cooling, and the compressor — the expensive part — is what eventually fails. A $15 filter protects a $5,000 component.

Part 2

The dryer vent — the one that starts fires

Dryers cause thousands of house fires a year and failure to clean them is the leading cause. This is the most important job in this guide and almost nobody does it.

1. 1

   The lint trap is not the vent

   Clean the lint screen every single load — that part most people do. But lint also builds through the duct running to the outside wall, and that is what burns.

2. 2

   Clean the duct once a year

   Unplug the dryer. Pull it out, disconnect the duct from the back, and use the brush kit and vacuum through the whole run from both ends. What comes out is usually alarming, which is the point.

3. 3

   Check the outside flap

   Go outside and find the vent while the dryer runs. The flap should open with strong warm airflow. If it barely moves, is blocked with lint, or has a bird nest in it, that is your problem.

4. 4

   Replace foil concertina duct

   The flexible foil or plastic accordion ducting traps lint in every ridge and is a known fire risk. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct is far safer, cheap, and available at any hardware shop.

5. 5

   Know the warning signs

   Clothes taking two cycles to dry, the dryer or the laundry room getting very hot, or a burning smell. Any of those means stop using it until the vent is cleared.

Part 3

The water heater

The most ignored appliance in the house, and the one whose failure does the most damage. Sediment is the enemy.

1. 1

   Know where its shutoffs are

   Cold water inlet valve on top, and either the gas valve or the breaker. If it ever leaks, those are what you reach for. Label them today.

2. 2

   Drain the sediment yearly

   Minerals settle in the bottom and insulate the burner from the water, so it works harder for less hot water. Turn off power or set gas to pilot, turn off cold inlet, attach a hose to the drain valve at the bottom, run it somewhere safe, open a hot tap upstairs to let air in, and drain a few gallons until it runs clear. Close up, refill fully BEFORE restoring power — an electric element switched on dry burns out instantly.

3. 3

   Set the temperature to 120°F

   Factory settings are often 140°F, which scalds a child in seconds and costs more to run. 120°F is the widely recommended balance of safety and efficiency.

4. 4

   Test the TPR valve carefully

   The temperature and pressure relief valve prevents the tank exploding. Lifting the lever briefly should release a rush of hot water down the discharge pipe. Stand clear — it is scalding. If it then drips continuously, or does nothing at all, call a plumber. Never cap or plug it.

5. 5

   Know when it is finished

   Most tanks last eight to twelve years. Rusty water, rumbling, or any moisture around the base means plan a replacement now rather than deal with a flood later. Check the date code on the serial plate.

Part 4

Air conditioning and heating through the year

In this climate the AC runs half the year. Two seasonal jobs keep it alive.

• Spring, before the first hot spell: hose the outdoor unit's fins clean from the inside out, with the power off at the disconnect. Clear two feet of space all round — plants and fences choke it.
• Straighten bent fins gently with a fin comb. Bent fins mean restricted airflow, which means the system works harder for less.
• Keep the condensate drain clear. A blocked drain line overflows and quietly ruins a ceiling. Pouring a cup of vinegar down the access point a couple of times a season usually prevents it.
• If the indoor coil ices up, turn the system to fan-only to melt it, then change the filter — icing is nearly always airflow.
• Autumn: change the filter, run the heat briefly before you need it. Discovering the furnace is dead in November beats discovering it in a January freeze.
• A burning smell the first time the heat runs each year is normally dust burning off and passes in minutes. A smell that persists, or any soot or yellow flame, means stop and call.
• Programmable or smart thermostats genuinely reduce bills. Setting back a few degrees while out or asleep is the easiest saving available.
• Get a professional service once a year if you can. It is modest money and catches refrigerant and electrical problems you cannot see.

Part 5

Fridge, dishwasher, washing machine

• Vacuum the fridge condenser coils twice a year — underneath or at the back. Dusty coils are the commonest cause of a fridge failing early and running warm.
• Check fridge door seals by closing them on a note of paper. If it slides out freely, the seal has gone and the fridge is running constantly.
• Fridge should be at or below 40°F, freezer at 0°F. Most people have never measured; a $5 thermometer settles it.
• Clean the dishwasher filter at the bottom. Many people do not know there is one, and it is usually the reason dishes come out gritty.
• Never leave a washing machine or dishwasher running when you are out. Supply hoses fail, and they fail at mains pressure.
• Replace rubber washing machine hoses with braided steel ones every five years. A burst hose puts out hundreds of gallons an hour.
• Leave a front-loading washer door ajar between washes, or the seal grows mould and the machine smells permanently.
• Clean the washer's drain pump filter, usually behind a small flap at the front bottom. Coins and hair collect there.
• Before calling anyone: check it is plugged in, check the breaker, check the door is properly latched. A large share of call-outs are one of those three.